Who’s That Kitten?

April 30, 2024

Identifying Lookalike Kittens

Teresa Keiger

 

Your queen has successfully delivered her litter! But there are two (or three, or perhaps more) that are the same color and/or pattern.  How does one tell which kitten is which?

I have bred Russian Blues for almost 30 years now, and I am always amused when a (usually new) breeder exclaims that they have kittens of the same color or pattern and worry about how to tell them apart. ALL Russian Blue kittens are solid blue, with the occasional blue point kitten (which is born solid white and develops points as it matures) or one with a white locket or tail tip. We learn early how to differentiate kittens … or not. I am certain that Korat, Chartreux, Bombay, and Havana Brown breeders also relate to this, as well as breeds with more limited color palettes, or colorpointed breeds like Siamese, until the color begins to emerge.

Don’t panic! With a bit of knowledge and planning, you will have those kittens sorted out (or at least the ones that need to be sorted …. which is the other part of the tale).

The Need-to-Know Basis

When is it important to identify individual kittens? This can vary depending on circumstances.

1. Within the first few days of birth to make certain that each kitten is gaining weight. This is probably the most crucial time to identify individuals to ensure that things are going well for all kittens in the litter.
2. To easily identify a kitten that might have an issue, such as needing meds, supplements, etc.
3. If there is more than one litter of approximately the same age on the ground – especially if they intermingle with each other. Of course it is important to get the kittens back to their respective mothers, although some queens will happily nurse any kitten and share mom duties. But more critical is ensuring the correct genetic background for any kittens that will become part of a breeding program.

However, in my experience, numbers one and two can rather sort themselves out. A healthy, growing kitten will be feel firm and full. A kitten that feels somewhat flaccid or underweight is readily apparent. In most circumstances, kittens that need medications are also easy to identify by their various maladies (crusty eyes, snotty noses, etc.). The point is that while being able to readily identify a kitten is ideal and reassuring, identifying one incorrectly is usually not the end of the world — except in the case of the aforementioned cross-litter mix up).

Eyeballing It

I usually find that kittens sort themselves into a few parameters: Light vs. dark; large vs. smaller; boy vs. girl. So a litter will have big boy, big girl, dark girl, smallest boy. Size might change, but color usually does not change, nor does sex (unless the sex-change fairy pays a visit!). Kittens may also have other identifiable features such as a broader head or more pointed face. I have also found that this method of distinguishing kittens helps the breeder develop a keen eye for breed detail.

Many (Magic) Markers

All that being said, often a breeder really does need to tell Fluffy from Puffy. How to manage that?

1. Nail polish. Some breeders use various colors of quick drying nail polish on the back nails of kittens. Remember to check their nails often in case it gets worn off.
2. Sharpie spot in the ear. Similar to the nail polish trick, use a different color of ink for each kitten. Again, check often as some queens can be a bit too fastidious.
3. Tyvek wrist bands. These bands are practically indestructible and inexpensive! For smaller kittens or breeds, cut the band lengthwise to create two thinner bands. Be careful about securing too tightly or too loosely around the kittens’ necks.
4. Hair scrunchies. Easily available in many colors, but be mindful about size.
5. Newborn kitten collars. Most commercially available kitten collars are still far too large for very young kittens. These collars are usually made by vendors and/or crafters and made of adjustable nylon cord.
6. Velcro neck bands. Available in a variety of colors, Velcro bands quickly fasten around a kitten’s neck and are easily adjustable.
7. (for older kittens) Trimming the hair inside of the ear or clipping a small patch of fur at the base of the tail is another ID method, but it is usually reserved to identify pet kittens going to new homes from those who will remain with breeder(s).

Later in Life

Just as we often need to identify some young kittens, breeders often have a reason to distinguish older kittens (and sometimes cats) from others. This may be because:

1. It helps new kitten buyers to distinguish which kittens are available to select from.
2. A cat sitter or a family member who is less familiar with the litter can readily identify which kitten/cat needs meds or has other special needs. You need to identify which kitten is which while you are gone should one or more kittens require veterinary care.
3. It will help a rushed or bleary-eyed breeder distinguish the kitten going to the vet (especially if the kitten is to be altered!) from the cat/kitten going on a trip to a new home, show, etc. Most breeders have a story or two about grabbing the wrong cat to go to the vet, or the wrong cat put up for the night in the wrong cage.

As the kittens grow, you may find yourself relying on other clues to each kitten’s identity. One may vocalize more, another will be more outgoing, another more timid.

Just remember: In most cases, as long as the kittens are healthy, firm, and growing, things are going great. There’s no urgent need to identify every kitten until they are older and decisions must be made about their futures. Similar-age litters should be separated until at least one of the litters has a distinct form of ID. And lastly, a clear identification plan needs to be in place so that your partner or cat sitter knows which cat is which, if you, as primary cat caregiver, are going to be absent.