Kitten Socialization, Part 2
September 11, 2025
New Home Socialization
Lucy Drury
In part one of this series, we briefly discussed the socialization of very young kittens by their breeders. In this part, we will discuss the next steps when that healthy new kitten is delivered to your home and you are now in charge! Part three will focus on preparing kittens for adventures outside of the house, saving what to do with ferals and poorly-socialized kittens for part four.
Setting Up For Success
Preparing for the arrival of your new kitten should start well before it arrives in your home. You will want to set up a safe area for your kitten where you can isolate them, particularly if you have other pets that will need to be introduced to the newcomer, or if your house is very large. Bedrooms, master bathrooms, home offices, dens, or other rooms with a door are all good places. Small bathrooms will work in a pinch, but typically they are too small for a kitten to acclimate well by the time you get their food, litter box, bed and toys in the room. We find the best place is a bedroom where a human is sleeping. Kittens seem to bond more quickly with their humans if they are allowed to sleep in the same room.
Once you identify a room, look with a fresh set of eyes. Kittens are masters at getting themselves into predicaments, so you want to make the room as safe as possible. Cords on window coverings, narrow gaps between furniture and walls, breakable objects on shelves, and power cords can all be deadly for curious kittens. While not necessarily dangerous, you should also look for places where a kitten could hide and not be easily retrieved.
Ask the breeder what your kitten will need to eat when it comes home, about the toys and beds it likes, the litter it is using, and anything else that might make your environment more familiar to your new kitten. One item often overlooked is water: A change in water can upset a new kitten’s tummy just as much as a change in food, so be sure to ask what type of water the breeder is giving their kittens. If they use tap instead of bottled or filtered water, ask them to bring some from home to slowly mix into the water you will be giving the kitten for the long haul. Tap water may contain both chlorine and fluoride, which could be harmful to kittens over time as these have been linked to kidney disease in cats. Although extensive studies have not been done, at minimum, we know that changes in water pH and insoluble matter may cause diarrhea in kittens. Using bottled or filtered water is recommend; a pitcher or water fountain that uses filters is a good solution, but filters should be cleaned or changed frequently.
Travel Arrangements
A responsible breeder should offer to deliver the kitten to your home, especially if distance is not a factor. We recognize that this is not always possible, but we know from personal experience that home delivery greatly shortens the fear period kittens may experience when adapting to their new environment. Consider that the kitten’s whole world has revolved around its littermates, its mother, and the humans and other cats in the home. If the breeder has done a good job socializing the kitten, it will be comfortable and trust the breeder, making the transition easier. Owners are understandably eager to get their new pet as soon as possible and often offer to go pick the kitten up from the breeder or meet them halfway somewhere, which is more equitable but not as ideal as a home delivery. If you are traveling a long distance but have never traveled with a cat before, be sure to ask the breeder for tips and tricks for traveling with your kitten, whether by car or by air.
Gotcha Day!
A well-planned handoff between breeder and new owner often results in a kitten immediately adapting to their new home, especially when the breeder has done their part and raised a kitten prepared to adapt to changes in their environment. The new owner should schedule a delivery when someone will be home and able to spend a significant amount of time with the kitten for at least two to three days. Even if the kitten seems happy in its new surroundings, when you leave for work, if they are left in a strange room all by themselves for the next 8+ hours they may become stressed.
If the breeder has agreed to deliver your kitten, it should arrive hungry and be offered treats or a small meal. Many breeders will bring a towel, small blanket, or bed from their home to leave with the kitten, so they have something with familiar smells to sleep on. Another option is having a bed or blanket sent to the breeder’s home for the kitten to use in advance. A small bag of gently used litter from the kitten’s litter box can be sprinkled in their new litter box, making it more familiar. The company of another kitten from the litter or another cat the kitten is friendly with on the ride will help them with the transition. We have several show cats that love meet and greets in new places, and kittens draw confidence from them.
When the kitten is finally with you, it should be taken in its carrier to its temporary “safe” room (Pro tip: always move the carrier with the door facing to the rear rather than forward so that the occupant sees where they have been, rather than where they are going). Strange people or objects moving towards a carrier when the cat has nowhere to run can be very frightening. Other pets and small children who might make sudden movements or loud noises should not be allowed in the room during the initial introduction.
The breeder and the new owner should sit on the floor and then open the kitten’s carrier. Allow the kitten to explore the room but also have wand toys available to play with the kitten. Cats will instinctively walk the perimeter of the room – this is where prey typically hangs out. They should be allowed to do this inspection and while they are walking around the room, observe their body language. A well-socialized kitten will have their tail straight up in the air; one that is more fearful in new situations will slink close to ground with their tail flat. If the tail is flat, gently pull the tail to an upright position and ask, “Where’s your tail?” This reminds the kitten that everything is okay, and over time, the cat will raise its tail willingly when you ask that question. Most people will doubt this really builds confidence in a kitten until they try this positive affirmation.
If the kitten seems happy and confident, allow it to continue inspecting the room and begin to engage in play – first with the breeder, then the new owner. If the kitten is stretching, yawning, sighing, or acting as if shaking off water, these are all signs that the kitten is adapting to the new environment. If the kitten is showing signs of fear, the breeder should distract the kitten by playing, offering treats, or holding it in their lap. Kittens should not be allowed to hide for long periods of time – there are many well-intentioned people who think the kitten should be given places to hide, and they will adapt in their own time. We believe it is better for the kitten to have the opportunity to face their fears and discover their new world is not such as scary place sooner rather than later. Having a cat tree with a little house on it, a bed cave, or a box can give a cat a sense of security but still let it see what’s going on in the room and that there are no “scary monsters.” If allowed to cower under beds or furniture restricting vision, it will take much longer to overcome their fears.
Quiet music as background noise lessens the impact of any sudden, new noises such as running water, creaking floors, barking dogs, or footsteps on an upper level. Fun, new interactive toys to focus the kitten’s attention on batting an object around are a great distraction. Many confident kittens will stretch out and begin to paw the carpet (a marking behavior); this is a great time to introduce scratching posts and pads.
The breeder should only stay for an hour or so. Most kittens will start to interact with the new owners after about 15-20 minutes and be happily playing with them. The kitten should then be fed by the new owner. The breeder can quietly depart while the kitten is eating.
That First Night
If possible, the new owner should sleep in the room with the kitten … this is the fastest way to make a bond. The kitten may be wary of sleeping on your bed with you that first night, though you may find it may not curl up next to you for the first day or two. The kitten will still draw comfort from you being there, and soon you will find it snuggling up next to you.
Now you can build good nighttime habits: Get the kitten used to your nighttime routine and use a verbal cue such as “It’s nite-nite time,” or some other verbal cue to let it know it’s bedtime. Do not tease the kitten with your feet or allow it to get under the covers – your feet will thank you for it. Playing with your kitten then feeding its last meal an hour or two before bedtime will help avoid nighttime zoomies; feeding breakfast at the same time every morning will avoid early wake up calls from your cat, as cats in the wild hunt, eat, then sleep. Their typical time to do this is dusk and dawn. Establish a routine, and you will sleep a lot better.
Next Steps
Once your kitten seems happy and well-adjusted in your home, invite friends over for a “meet and greet.” The more people kittens see, the more likely you’ll have an official greeter when the doorbell rings. Encourage visitors to give treats and play with your kitten. Take it for rides in the car in a carrier whenever possible – we have had several kitten clients pop the kitten in the car every morning when taking their children to school! Learn to leash train your kitten or take it around in a pet stroller or backpack. If you have plans to show your cat or take it on adventures, early exposure while the kitten is young is critical for learning to not be afraid in new environments. In part three of this series, we will discuss in more detail how to prepare your kitten for life in the show ring, on the trail, or perhaps in a boat as an “adventure cat!”
Troubleshooting
Sometimes, despite your best efforts, you have a kitten that runs and hides every time you walk in the room. What then? In part four of this series, we’ll talk about how to socialize feral kittens and those from a shelter. The techniques for socializing these kittens are also applicable to the pedigreed kitten that doesn’t readily warm up to you. Stay tuned!