Getting Your Cat Into a Carrier
Yes, You Can Make It Easier – For You Both!
Dr. Joan M. Freesh
A cat carrier is the safest way to transport your cat. Cats may run away if not confined, car accidents may happen, and a cat can be injured if loose in the car. Some cats are fearful of cat carriers and are difficult to place into a carrier to transport them to a veterinarian or any place else. This is an age-old problem that causes stress and dread for both cat owner and cats. Some cats never make it to a veterinarian because getting the cat into a carrier is too stressful, so it does not get the medical care that it needs. It doesn’t have to be like that. You can learn techniques to make kitty transport easier and more pleasant.
Prepare your cat/kittens early so that your cat will be comfortable in a carrier. How do you do that? Make the carrier a shelter that delivers a safe environment where good things happen. Keep a carrier out in the house with the door open. Place a towel or soft blanket in the carrier; feed your cat in the carrier; periodically put a toy or treats or catnip inside for your cat to find. Make the carrier fun. When your cat is entering the carrier willingly for food or treats, it’s time to shut the door. Leave your cat inside for five minutes and then let it back out. Keep using this technique and extend the time to ten minutes. Then pick up the cat in the carrier, put the carrier in the car and take a short drive. Come home and let the cat out after a treat. No big deal. If you are nervous and apprehensive, your cat will be, too. This takes time and patience. Breathe!!
If you have had a number of cats, you will have witnessed them curling up in boxes, a clothes basket, paper sacks, or any open drawer. Cats like small spaces where they can hide. At my cat practice we would often put a box in a cat’s cage so that it could feel more relaxed – hiding, if the cat was extremely nervous. Small spaces are good. The carrier is a small space and should be tempting.
When you have made a veterinary appointment, you may want to spray the bedding in the carrier with Feliway® and let it sit for 20 minutes. Feliway® is a cat pheromone that marks the carrier with “positive cat vibes.” There are other cat pheromone products available, both online and in pet stores. Just make sure to buy a spray version for this purpose. You can also cover the carrier with a towel or blanket to allow your cat to feel hidden and safe.
When you get to the veterinary practice, keep your cat in the carrier until the veterinarian is ready to examine your kitty. Some cats will get aggressive if they wander around the exam room and smell other cats who have been there. Choose a veterinary practice with a “Cat Friendly Practice®” rating from the Feline Veterinary Medical Association.
Remain calm during the visit. When you get home, let your cat out after treats. To reinforce good experiences, periodically take your cat in the carrier out for a ride that doesn’t end at the veterinary clinic.
Now, if there is no time for the slow cat/carrier process described above, there are many ways to handle your cat and get it into a carrier. If you purchase a carrier that has a door in the front and a door on the top, you will have two access points to use. Bring the carrier out before the veterinary appointment and leave it open. Put kitty in a bathroom or small room with no access to get under furniture if possible, and offer canned food or treats. Avoid running after your cat all over the home. Consider putting the carrier on a counter in the kitchen. Don’t try to handle your cat on the floor: That is the cat’s domain. When you pick a cat up and use a countertop, you have more leverage and the cat is out of its element. Trying to push your cat headfirst into a carrier usually brings paws and legs out to push back against the carrier. That never works. Try these methods:
- Pick your cat up and face its butt to the front carrier door. Back the kitty into the carrier calmly. You may need to hold its rear legs together at the start. Most cats will allow you to do this because they can’t see the carrier coming. Push your cat gently backwards into the carrier. You can try to wrap your cat in a towel (“burrito” style) and push it into the carrier, then close the door quickly. Reward with treats.
- Pick your cat up and deposit it butt-side first into the carrier from the top opening. You may need to hold the back legs to start. Again, you can “burrito” the kitty to help control the legs. Close the door quickly and offer treats.
- Place the carrier standing vertically on the rear side. You may need someone to hold the carrier upright. Pick up your cat and hold both rear legs and drop the cat gently, butt-first, into the carrier. You have gravity working for you. Close the door quickly and reward with treats when the carrier is back in the normal position.
If you know that your cat can be difficult to get into a carrier, here are some more tips. Keep your cat’s nails trimmed. Nails grow back in about two weeks. You will be safer from scratches and your cat will be less likely to catch a claw and tear it if you keep the nails trimmed. Talk to your veterinarian about sedating your cat at home before trying to put it into a carrier. Gabapentin is often used.
You may have heard the expression to “scruff a cat.” I try not to use the technique because it is considered unacceptable now, but I will still do this on my own cats and will show cat owners how to do it if they are interested. Since mother cats pick their kittens up by the scruff (the skin on the back of the neck) with their teeth and carry them around, this technique usually results in a cat “freezing” and becoming more amenable to handling. You can make your own choice.
Getting a cat into a carrier is possible, but you must work with your cat and take it slowly. If you follow these tips and still have trouble, you should have a conversation with your veterinarian or a cat behavior professional to come up with a plan for your individual cat.