Four Behaviors of the Apocalypse
May 21, 2026
Inappropriate Feline Behavior
Nancy Kerr
You have noticed that your cat is starting to exhibit signs of problem behavior. What can you do to rectify this before the situation worsens? Before you can begin to effectively discourage problem behaviors, it is important to understand what is causing the behavior and to be aware of appropriate alternatives. Problematic behaviors need to be addressed promptly since repetition of the behavior can make the problem worse, especially if the cat is getting what it wants. In this article, we will be looking at four problem behaviors and effective ways to discourage them.
Zoomies
Cat zoomies, also known as frenetic random activity periods (FRAPS), are a fact of life, like the post-litterbox Indy 500 run around the house. However, nighttime zoomies can be a different matter. You are sound asleep when at 3 a.m. your cat starts running across your bed or bouncing on you. What can you do so that both you and your cat are on a similar sleep schedule? During the day, your cat is generally sleeping and relaxing while you work. Its day begins when you arrive home to provide feeding, play, and social interaction. “This is also the most natural time for cats to be active since they normally are most active in hunting and exploration at dusk and dawn (this is known as crepuscular behavior).”1
To correct the nighttime zoomies, you will need to try to adjust your cat’s sleep schedule to match yours. This will include adjusting play and feeding times. Play sessions during the afternoon and evening may help. While you are out of the house, provide mental stimulation and food with toys where the cat has to forage for treats. An automated feeder can provide your cat with breakfast if it is not time for you to get up. As a last resort, during the night you may have to relocate the cat to another room. Try to ignore the cat if it is being vocal, as responding to it could reinforce the behavior.
Scratching Furniture
Here is the good news: Apparently scratching is a very normal cat behavior. Cats scratch to mark their territory. The visual claw marks and the scent left behind by their footpads tell other cats that this is their turf. Scratching also serves to shorten and condition their claws.”2 The bad news: Apparently scratching is a very normal cat behavior. So, what can be done to stop them from using your furniture and belongings as territorial markers?
“The marking of territory is a soothing and reassuring activity for cats. If your cat is anxious or afraid it may scratch the furniture more often.”2 Try to reduce stress levels for your cat. Trim their claws on a regular basis. Position a sturdy scratching post in an open spot of a room where everyone can view their scratching technique. If your current scratching post is being snubbed, you may have to try different options before you find one that your cat accepts. One good alternative is a multi-level carpeted cat tree with a scratching post, hiding spots, and places for toys. If the cat is still using something other than the scratching post, try using the post to block access to the furniture item. Place the scratching post up against the area being scratched. Once the scratching post is being used, gradually begin to move it toward your preferred location.
Inappropriate Litter Habits
You have noticed that your cat has been going outside of the litter box. Are they leaving urine, stool, or spraying—all marking behaviors—where they should not? “When cats urinate on vertical surfaces, it is known as ‘spraying.’ Stool is rarely used for marking.”3 It is important to have your cat checked by a vet to rule out any medical conditions. Age could also play a role as “age-related cognitive (brain function) decline or endocrine disorders such as hyperthyroidism or diabetes might lead to changes in elimination habits, including house soiling. If elimination is associated with pain or discomfort, or if access to the litter box is difficult or uncomfortable, the cat may begin to eliminate outside of the box.”3
Did you make any changes around the time that the issue started? If so, reverse the changes and see if that fixes the issue. Try a different type of litter. Avoid litter that contains strong deodorizers or perfumes. What smells good to us may not smell good to them. To help prevent re-soiling, clean affected areas with odor eliminators. You should have one more litter box than the total number of cats in your home. Clean the boxes daily and completely change litter and clean the boxes on a regular basis. Some cats require their litter box to be extremely clean. This will entail cleaning the box at least once a day, removing stool and moist areas of urine. Do not use strong detergents or cleansers when cleaning the litterbox as this may add to the aversion. While a self-cleaning litter box may seem like a good idea, some cats may be scared of the noise the box makes. Older plastic litterboxes with scratch marks can hold a residual odor. Replace the old boxes with new ones. A covered litterbox may hold in odors and enable other cats to ambush the one inside using the box. Make sure the litterbox is placed in an easily accessible location as some cats will not use the box if it is located in an area that the cat finds unappealing or unpleasant. You can also try placing the litter pan in the area where the soiling is occurring to see if that will alleviate the problem. “Once a cat has persistently eliminated outside of the litter box for medical reasons, it may have learned to eliminate in the wrong location. Therefore, even if the medical problem has been resolved, behavioral therapy may be needed to re-establish regular use of the box.”
If the issue has not improved after a couple of weeks, a more intense evaluation of the factors that might be causing the problem will be required and other treatments may be needed, such as confinement to an area away from places that have been soiled. “Drug therapy can be a helpful adjunct where stress, anxiety, marking, or a medical component is involved.”3
Aggression
“Aggression is defined as hostile or violent behavior that is intended to dominate or intimidate another individual. Its causes can be complex, both in terms of triggers and targets, making it challenging to find strategies to eliminate aggressive feline behavior. A recent study reported that 27 percent of cats relinquished to shelters for behavioral reasons were surrendered for aggression. Signs of aggression can be separated into two categories: those observed in the face and head and those expressed by body posture. Signs of aggression include dilated pupils, ears flattened backward on the head, tail held erect with hairs raised, and an arched back.”4
Early intervention is best when dealing with aggression. Insure that there is no medical reason for the aggressive behavior. “Diseases such as hyperthyroidism, osteoarthritis, dental disease, and central nervous system problems may cause aggression.”4 After the vet has ruled out any medical problems, identifying the type of aggression is key to understanding its cause and to developing a plan to intervene.
Cats display a number of different types of aggression, and in some cases, a cat may display more than one type at the same time. The different types of aggression are:
Play Aggression, which often occurs in young cats and kittens that were not raised with littermates, or that lack opportunities to play. To intervene in play aggression, first determine if there is a pattern to when and where aggressive behavior occurs. If so, preempt the aggression by distracting the cat with play at times when it is likely to be aggressive, or by denying access to places that encourage the behavior.
Fear Aggression occurs when a cat encounters unfamiliar stimuli, such as a new person, animal, or noise, or when a cat is exposed to an experience that he associates with unpleasant events, such as a trip to the veterinarian. Identify and avoid situations that produce a fearful response. If such a situation cannot be avoided, then you can attempt gradual desensitization by briefly exposing the cat to the stimulus that causes the fear, and then rewarding nonaggressive behavior with food and praise.
Petting-Induced Aggression occurs when a cat suddenly becomes aggressive when being petted, handled, bathed, groomed, or has its claws trimmed. Try to avoid uninvited handling or petting, any type of physical punishment or restraint, or attempts to pick up or interact with the cat while eating. Rewarding the cat with a treat for allowing brief, light stroking without signs of aggression may also be helpful. Over time, try to gradually increase the duration of stroking. With any sign of aggression, stop the petting and begin a cooling-down period with no physical contact.
Redirected Aggression occurs when a cat is excited by a stimulus but cannot respond directly. The cat may redirect his aggression toward a human or another cat. Remove or avoid the source of the stimulus.
Pain-Induced Aggression occurs when cats who are in pain act aggressively toward people or other pets in an attempt to avoid touch, movement, or certain activities that might worsen the pain. Avoid touching the affected areas and see your vet about pain medication options.
Status-Induced Aggression occurs when cats want to establish social dominance, and to do so, show signs of aggression toward people or other pets. The best way to address status-induced aggression is to ignore an offending cat completely. Attention, including play and food rewards, should be given only when an aggressive cat is relaxed.
Territorial Aggression, similar to status-induced aggression, occurs when cats want to establish or defend their territories. They may show aggression toward newly introduced cats or, more occasionally, other animals or people who are encroaching upon their established domain. This may include attacks on resident cats who were previously accepted but had temporarily been away from the home, perhaps for a stay at the vet. Addressing this problem will involve a slow introduction or reintroduction of the newcomer cat.
Maternal Aggression occurs when queens who have recently given birth and are nursing kittens demonstrate aggression toward individuals who approach them. Provide a quiet, low-stress environment for the cat, keep visitors to a minimum, and avoid contact with the queen and kittens if aggression is observed. This sort of aggression will usually subside as the kittens get older and become more independent.
Inter-Cat Aggression occurs when a male, or, more rarely, a female cat demonstrates aggression toward other cats as they approach social maturity, between two and four years of age. “If possible, neuter or spay all cats involved, as sexual hormones may play an important role in this type of aggression. If neutering and spaying does not improve the situation, the cats should be separated with barriers such as baby gates or panels made of cardboard, light wood, or plastic. The cats can then be reintroduced slowly with positive reinforcement such as treats.”4 Do not put your hand or any other body part between cats that are fighting, as serious injury is possible. Do not physically punish the cats. “Any type of physical punishment can increase a cat’s fear or anxiety and worsen aggression. Medications may help, but only in combination with behavioral and/or environmental modification. Recognizing aggression and startling an aggressive cat without physical contact is usually effective. Avoid situations that you know make a cat aggressive.”4
In Summary
“Behavioral problem improvement is generally a slow and gradual process, requiring treatment, time, and commitment from owners. Quick fixes or ‘magic pills’ do not exist for behavior problems. Modifying the pet’s behavior is accomplished by behavior modification techniques aimed at achieving and rewarding improved behavior. Changes to the cat’s home environment may be required so that the cat can be kept away from anything that stimulates the undesireable behavior or from the areas in which the problem occurs. Products that improve safety, reduce anxiety, or quicken improvements may also be used. Drugs and supplements may also be indicated for some pets and some problems.”5
Sources
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- Debra Horwitz, DVM, DACVB & Gary Landsberg, DVM, DACVB, DECAWBM, Cat Behavior Problems – Nocturnal Activity, 2013, Accessed 03/12/2026, https://vcahospitals.com/know-your-pet/cat-behavior-problems—nocturnal-activity
- Why cats scratch furniture (and how to stop it!), Accessed 03/12/2026, https://vcahospitals.com/resources/behavior-cat/concerns/why-cats-scratch-furniture-and-how-to-stop-it
- Debra Horwitz, DVM, DACVB & Gary Landsberg, DVM, DACVB, DECAWBM , Cat Behavior Problems – House Soiling, , 2012, Accessed 03/12/2026, https://vcahospitals.com/know-your-pet/cat-behavior-problems-house-soiling
- Feline Behavior Problems: Aggression, December 2016, Accessed 03/12/2026, https://www.vet.cornell.edu/departments-centers-and-institutes/cornell-feline-health-center/health-information/feline-health-topics/feline-behavior-problems-aggression
- Gary M. Landsberg, BSc, DVM, MRCVS, DACVB, DECAWBM, North Toronto Veterinary Behaviour Specialty Clinic, Treatment of Behavior Problems in Cats, Sept 2024, Accessed 03/12/2026, https://www.merckvetmanual.com/cat-owners/behavior-of-cats/treatment-of-behavior-problems-in-cats